Pu'er Part 2: An Investor's Guide to Shou

Pu'er is a culture within a culture. I spent eight months meeting with a pu'er master every week and I have only touched the surface of all there is to know. This is because no two bricks are alike. A great Dragonwell green tea is just that. It changes only for the worse as its flavor fades over time. All Shifeng spring harvest Dragonwell is essentially the same if it is processed in the same way. The chemistry of fermentation that goes into pu'er production introduces so many more variables that the possibilities cannot be exhausted in a lifetime. For example, two identical bricks stored at two different humidities will be completely different. The more humid environment will cause the brick to age more quickly and with different results. A brick stored in plastic will age much less quickly than one stored in paper. Even after 50 years of careful aging, you have to break a brick apart, which is a skill in itself. If you break the leaves while chiseling at the brick, you will make a bitter tea. In addition, pu'er is not limited by a single growing region or size of tea plant. Some pu'ers are made from ancient tea trees, and others from smaller shrubs.

The important point is that delving into pu'er culture is like being dropped into the middle of an ocean with no raft. You have no direction where to paddle and nobody to help you. It is easy to be cheated, or buy an inferior product and then be turned off from pu'er forever. My hope is that with a little help, you can start buying pu'er with confidence. In my last post, I discussed the main characteristics of a good sheng tea. Today, I will talk a little about shou pu'er.

Shou, (literally ripe) tea is a relatively new innovation. As people began to realize that sheng tea could be treated like fine wine, valued for what year it was produced, and appreciated for its aged flavor, the prices skyrocketed. Demand for pu'er went up, especially because of its health benefits to digestion, and because of the boost to one's social status of taking out a 20 year old brick to share with friends. Some entrepeneurs started trying to accelerate the aging process to pass off a 1 year old tea as a 25 year old tea. To do this, moisture had to be added to the leaves to greatly accelerate fermentation by encouraging cultures to thrive. This had to be done in a very controlled way to stop the tea from looking moldy. The first shou pu'ers were these rip-off bricks, and they tasted horrendous.

Later, the technique was adopted by people interested in finding a way to make shou taste good. They started using higher quality leaves, and introducing the moisture slightly more slowly. The resuts were promising. A brick, exposed to intense moisture in a clean environment develops a rich flavor immediately. This flavor is not the same as an aged sheng like people had originally hoped, but it has come to be appreciated as a different kind of fine pu'er, much like both red and white wines can be savored in different ways.

Today, more people like to drink shou pu'er because it is almost immediately ready for consumption. It is not bitter and dry at the beginning of its life like many sheng teas, but it still matures over time into something greater. It is also sweeter and smoother as a general rule. However, it has a very distinctive taste that some people find acrid. Getting used to pu'er is like learning to drink coffee or appreciate cheese. The taste seems overwhelming at first, but over time you learn to appreciate its subtleties.

So, how do you evaluate a good shou? What characteristics should it posses? First, be sure that a certificate of authenticity is pressed into the leaves. This certificate should match the wrapping. The outer wrapper will have a date of manufacture stamped on the back. This date is the single most important factor in valuing the tea, so be sure you know the age of the brick. Next, examine the color of the leaves. They should be dark brown for large leaf pu'er, and lighter orange-brown for budset pu'er. Occasionally the two types of leaves are mixed in one brick with interesting results. There should be no whitish film over the brick, as this means it has molded. Next, smell the tea. It should have a strong smell similar in texture to the smell of hay. There should be no broken leaves or twigs embedded in the brick. If you smell any fishiness, then the brick was poorly aged, and has turned sour from thriving cultures.

Next, try to have a sample prepared in-store before you make a purchase. Look at the tea water itself. It should be dark, but not murky. Be sure that it is transparent to translucent. Depending on the shou pu'er being made, the color of the water can range from bright orange to almost pitch black (not an opaque black but an almost crystalline black). When you taste the tea, it should have a signature sweetness along with the strong taste that is shou's signature love-it or hate-it flavor. This flavor walks a fine line near bitter or sour, but should never cross this line. It is more of a texture and strength in the mouth than a real flavor, and it should not linger. Instead, the aftertaste should be sweet. Acceptable shou bricks leave a caramel or brown sugar flavor in the mouth. Finer pu'ers build on this sweetness with a creamy richness. Even finer pu'er will diverge into many different complex possibilities. One common complexity is a camphor flavor. Another is like the taste of fragrant rice. Sometimes pu'er will have the taste of apples or even flowers in it. The most expensive bricks made from very small buds tend to develop a roasted flavor similar to Big Red Robe in the aftertaste. be sure to steep the tea at least five times before making a decision. Often, cheaper pu'ers will turn bitter or dry after a few steepings. A fine shou can be steeped for 10-20 infusions without trouble.

The age of a shou will have a slightly lesser impact on its flavor than a sheng, but age is still considered important. The oldest shou pu'er has a texture to it described as "ancient flavor." This is a kind of smokiness, where the flavor of the tea seems to dissolve into vapor as you drink it. The dynamism and unpredictability of this experience makes it difficult to describe tangibly. A shou between ne and five years old probably lacks complexity beyond sweetness and richness. a 5-10 year old shou can be quite excellent. Anything over 10 will begin to pick up the "ancient taste."

Storage of shou is exactly the same as sheng. They can all be put together in a cardboard bow away from smells and humidity. Open up the box at least a few times a year to evaluate the progress of your tea's evolution.

To prepare shou pu'er, use either a devoted yixing clay teapot, or a gaiwan (covered bowl). Be sure to discard the first steeping as the flavor may not be ideal. A tea aged for ten years needs to be washed off once or even twice to wake up the leaves. The first 1-2 steepings that you drink will be light, a little flat even. The 3rd and 4th steepings will be the best, full of the tea's complexity. After that, a high quality pu'er may change in flavor in interesting ways for 10 more steepings before fading. Begin by pouring the water out from the teapot or gaiwan immediately unless you are using an English-style large teapot. Add a few seconds to the steeping time each infusion. The finest pu'ers can be put in a large cup and steeped all day while you sip from the top without making the tea bitter. The leaves will sink to the bottom and you will be free to enjoy. Add more water when you get down to about half. This is a convenient alternative for those of us on the go, or without proper equipment. This does not apply to sheng pu'er which will get bitter if steeped for more than a few seconds. I do not recommend using a large teapot for sheng.

If you are interested in buying pu'er, leave me a comment and I will help you look on the web for whatever flavor profile you would want. I happy to be of service.

The Wonders of Pu'er

There are not many teas out there with such a love-hate dichotomy. Very few people can find green tea offensive, even if they don't prefer it. Pu'er is an exception to the rule. Pu'er is a unique kind of tea that actually improves over a long period of time sitting in a closet. (Or a pu'er cellar for afficionados.)

The story of pu'er began with the opening of tea trade between China and its western neighbors like Tibet, Xinjiang and Mongolia. Tea was picked in Southern Yunnan province and transported along the tea-horse trail. As the name implies, tea was used to purchase high quality horses for the Chinese cavalry. At first, merchants found that loose tea would be destroyed after such a long journey through the Himalayas. As a result, tea was pressed into bricks to preserve it for the long road. The Tibetans found this brick tea necessary to supplement their winter diet of yak meat and tsanpa (roasted barley kneaded with yak butter). The tea provided vitamins and nutrients that meat products lacked, and aided in digestion. If you ever go to Tibet today, you will still be greeted with a cup of butter tea, powdered pu'er-like brick tea mixed with boiling water and cut with sour yak butter.

This continued for some time until the trade caught the attention of the imperial house. A tribute of tea was demanded to "show loyalty" to the emperor. The journey to the capital from Southern Yunnan was a long and treacherous one, especially in the southern heat. By the time the tea arrived at court, the envoy was afraid that the tea was ruined. To their surprise, the

imperial officials said it was the best tea that they had tried, exhibiting much more complexity and richness than the fresh green tea that they received. This is how the Yunnanese tea merchants stumbled upon a great secret, that tea's flavor could be improved through fermentation.

From this story is born Pu'er tea, which is a broad category of fermented teas named after the most famous source of leaves for the bricks, Pu'er county. Within this category, there are two main types of Pu'er, sheng (raw, or literally, live), and shou (cooked, or literally, ripe). Sheng tea is the older of the two types. Sheng is made from many different kinds of leaves, ranging from hair-covered buds to giant leaves from ancient wild tea trees. It is pressed into bricks or balls and allowed to age naturally for years. It is generally quite dry and bitter for the first five years of its maturation. Afer 10 years it becomes pleasantly drinkable. After 20 years it is priceless. Of course, there are exceptions. I tried some 2008 pu'er during my last field research journey to Yunnan and found it to be quite smooth, sweet and slightly spicy already, with none of the dryness that characterized other Shengs of its age. I bought up as much as my luggage could hold, knowing that if it was so good after one year, it would be heavenly after 20 years. This is an important point; just like with wine, you have to start with great materials to yield great tea. A mediocre brick does not grow into something wonderful given even 50 years. When you consider investing in Sheng bricks, remember to start with something excellent.

It is best to try a pot of the tea in a store before buying a whole brick to judge its flavor. A brand-new sheng should exhibit three main characteristics if it is to become a great tea. It should be sweet, smooth, and have a flavor or interest that you could see developing into something amazing. I have tried too many shengs that had nothing but sweetness. Though the leaves were of high quality, I knew that they would never be intriguing drinking experiences. Unique flavors that a young tea can exhibit are a slight fruitiness (like raisins), a peppery flavor, or a flavor like a flower's fragrance. The highest quality sheng bricks exhibit a camphor-like flavor with an aftertaste of licorice root. These are extremely uncommon, especially in a young tea. An acceptable young sheng can have a little dryness and bitterness, but not too much, especially if you are paying more than 10-15 dollars.

If you cannot taste the tea, then at least inspect the brick. It should be wrapped in a paper cover with its date of manufacture stamped. The tea should come with a loose explanatory note inside the brick, and have a certificate of authenticty pressed into the tea itself on the front side. The leaves should not be broken, and the brick should generally be free of twigs and leaf scraps. A young sheng should be silvery green in color, as the higher-quality leaves still have the silver-sheen of their hair on them. A sheng made from very large leaves that are a darker green will have a stronger flavor, and perhaps more bitterness, though they often grow into very interesting teas. A sheng made from small leaves is more likely to be immediately palatable, with the trademark sweetness. Anything under 3 years old costs less than 15 dollars to buy in China, unless there is something very unusual about it. Consider this when you go shopping. Shipping and duties will cost a store another 5-6 dollars on top of the purchase cost, plus the cost of stocking the tea and paying employees, but generally, one should not pay more than 40 dollars for a 357g brick.

If you get your hands on a brick of sheng, put a piece of paper into the wrapping as your own record of the tea. Write down where you bought it and how old it is. Try the tea once a year and write down your observations of its flavor. After a number of years, when your tea has reached a peak in its flavor, then you can drink it more often. Until that point it is best to let it sit and age. If you are impatient, then buy some Shou tea to tide you over as it can been consumed immediately with pleasant results. (Shou will be discussed in the next entry.) Pu'er bricks are traditionally stored in stacks of seven wrapped in large dried leaves and tied together. Since most of us are not buying lots of seven bricks, you can just put your pu'er together in a cardboard box and keep it in a room far away from any smells. Smells from food, incense, Febreeze, or whatever else is in the air will be absorbed into the brick like baking soda absorbs the smell of last year's egg salad in the back of a refrigerator. Unless you want the delicate aroma of dirty laundry to waft from your cup, don't keep pu'er in a clothes closet. Find a cool, dry place that is ventilated to let your investment grow. I say dry, because an overly humid environment can cause a pu'er to mold. Don't buy a pu'er that has a white film on it, as this means that it was poorly kept by the tea store.

So much trouble for a brick of undrinkable tea! But just wait and see the results. No other tea has the potential for flavor complexity that Sheng pu'er does. I recently got to try some thirty year old sheng that won an award for leaf quality back in the 70's. It was an incredible experience. It began in the first steeping like a creamy sweet dessert, reminiscent of vanilla pastry in some way. It then developed a floral taste which opened into a glorious camphor and licorice root with a lingering sweetness that went all the way down the throat. It continued in its 20th steeping to develop a taste of stone that you get in Dragonwell green tea, and began to fade on the perfumed notes of Tieguanyin around the 30th steeping. Pu'er can be a special thing. If you are getting married, buy a brick to drink on your 10th anniversary. If you are having a child, buy a brick to present them when they graduate.

I hope this is helpful in pointing you towards enjoying Sheng pu'er. Don't be put off by one bad experience. There are so many pu'ers out there that you can never say you don't like the taste. They vary too dramatically. Make a resolution to try again armed with new knowledge. If you have any questions, leave a comment and they will be answered. The second installment on Shou pu'er coming to you tomorrow.

Tea Tables as Art Objects

The word "coffee table" is about as common as words like Kleenex and Band-aid. We say it, but we don't think about it. Coffee tables are those short, long tables where you put big books of pictures that so-and-so gave you for Christmas because they were 50% off. What if I say tea table? Perhaps we imagine some fine lacquered piece, or a civilized gathering complete with scones and a tea cozy. Today I want to talk about what "tea table" means in China.

A tea table is a specific tool, and an integral part of any Chinese gongfu ceremony. Their function is to collect the water that spills from the tea pots, and tea cups during the washing and steeping process. Watch Verdant Tea's video on gongfu ceremony if you want to see why the process is so messy that water needs to be collected. Water is even poured over the teapot to make sure it is extremely hot in preparation for steeping tea. Because of the heat, and the quality of clay in yixing clay teapots, this water evaporates off the pot, leaving it dry to pour tea. This water and spillage must be collected. There are two basic ways to do this. On is to use a tray, usually crafted from interlaced wood panels. This tray will have holes for water to fall through, and be collected underneath by a slide-out pan.

The second type of tea table is the one used by professionals, which collects water at a drain, and lets it fall into a bucket through a rubber tube. This allows for more continuous use than a tray with a water pan. These professional tables come in many forms. Some are slabs of solid rock, with elaborate carved scenes, bridges, and multiple levels for placing cups. Some are pieces of carved walnut tree, full of gnarls and sometimes, decorative patterns. These slabs of wood or rock range from the size of a laptop to the size of a twin bed. The same shapes are also seen as yixing clay tablets, whose colors change over years of use.

The most elaborate for of all is the full tea table. These are usually only seen in tea houses, prospering tea stores, or wealthy tea aficionados houses. When a hardwood tree, especially a great old walnut tree dies of its own accord, the root system is carefully dug out of the ground and thoroughly rinsed. The root is then studied carefully, as a master carpenter must take advantage of its natural form in crafting the table. The knots and burls of the wood are used to the carpenters advantage as some roots are cut to form levels on the table and others are left intact to add to the aesthetic quality of the piece. The finished product is generally root-side up, meaning, what used to be the root system has been cut and carved into a multi-tiered surface. The lowest point on the table will be the large flat area used by the tea master to prepare tea. The higher points will be cut levels for individuals to place their tea cups. The large flat area will be sanded in a way that all of the water drains to one point, where a hole is drilled in the wood and a plastic tube carries the water out from the board and into a bucket out of view of the guests.

These tables are not often seen for sale in China, as the wood used to make the tables is so valuable. It is common to see smaller tables (about the size of an average coffee table) for sale made from a cheap pine wood. These are easy to spot as the wood is all the same color, and is missing the burled and knotted quality of a walnut tree that died of old age. The most desirable tables come from the oldest trees because their root systems are more developed. Some examples are as large as a king-sized bed, and are a clear symbol of the extreme wealth of the owner. A medium-sized piece made from an average wood costs around 10,000 RMB, which at the time of writing, comes to about 1,500 dollars. If you ever consider buying such a table, know that inferior woods are subject to cracking when exposed to regular high heat of boiling water. Only walnut wood keeps its natural shine and resists water damage.

If you are ever lucky enough to go to China, be sure to find a teahouse with one of these beautiful tables and admire the craftsmanship. The traditional aesthetic of tea objects in China is similar to the Japanese idea of beauty in imperfection. The finest tea tables will be the ones where the natural shapes of the wood are allowed to come through, and the imperfections in coloring and shape are celebrated and brought out, not hidden. The tea table itself is an extension of the objects of contemplation found in a scholar's studio.

If you live in the Minneapolis area, you can check out the beautiful wood and stone objects of contemplation in the Asian wing of the Minneapolis Institute of Arts. Here you will find a wonderfully-reconstructed studio and examples of fine Chinese wood-craftsmanship, along with unchanged natural objects like root burls that were treasured as inspirational to poets and calligraphers.

Like all elements of the tea ceremony, the tea table itself can be read like a book. When we examine it closely, we will understand not only its nature, but the nature of tea as a way of life. Every cup, pot, and tool points towards the ultimate philosophy of tea, something we will continue to explore in this blog from as many angles as possible in the hopes of approaching more closely the truth.

What is an Yixing Clay Teapot?

In the last few years, I have seen the number of yixing clay teapots for sale in the United States go up quite a bit. Just this year, all the tea shops in Minneapolis/St. Paul have started to carry them. The question is, what exactly is an yixing clay teapot, and what makes it different from any other clay teapot?

Yixing is a county in Southern China, not too long of train ride from Shanghai or Hangzhou. What makes it special is the presence of a certain kind of clay that does not exist anywhere else in the

world. This clay has a special mineral composition that makes it perfectly porous, and makes it hold heat extraordinarily well. When I say "perfectly porous," I mean that the clay, once fired, if left unfinished, will absorb the flavor of tea into its pores over many years and develop a deep lustrous patina. It is because of this that true yixing clay teapots are rather sought-after and expensive.

Because of thier value, yixing teapots are often imitated. Now, any teapot made in the style of a small gongfu pot and left unglazed can be called an yixing teapot. Sadly, I have yet to see much authentic yixing clay ware make it to America. Even if you go to China, it is easy to be tricked. To judge the authenticity of the clay, first examine it. The clay should not be one solid color, but contain many small flecks of slightly different colors within it. Inside the teapot, you should notice small sparkling mica flecks when you shine light inside. If you turn the lid against the body of the teapot, you should hear a distinct deep metallic sound. If it sounds like rock, the clay is

from elsewhere. If it sounds too metallic, minerals were probably mixed into the clay to pass it off as an imitation.

Now that we have this established, we should discuss what makes a good yixing clay teapot. The easiest way to judge quality is to wiggle the lid. If it does not move much at all, it is well crafted and fit together. If it wiggles too much, it was made in a sloppy way, or by a machine. Second, turn the lid again. If you notice any grinding, it is a sign that the clay has been sanded down after firing to correct for poor craftsmanship. The lid should almost glide. Next, inspect the inside of the teapot. There should be a slight dimple where the handle was attached if your pot was hand-made. If not, it was probably made in a mold. Finally, look at the color. Yixing clay comes in many colors, but they all begin slightly dull. If your pot is too shiny, or the color is very bright, it may be painted or treated. Paint or varnish on an yixing pot is not only a sign of bad quality; it will actually affect the taste of your tea.

So, with all of this trouble to go buy an yixing pot, why would you ever want one? Simply put, they make far superior tea. They are high maintenance, but over years of use, they pick up the essence of all the teas that you have steeped in the pot, and impart a bit of that essence to all future teas. This makes tea steeped in an yixing pot much more rich and deep than steeped any

other way. The flavor will have more layers and a more interesting texture and feeling in the mouth. This means that if you use a teapot for pu'er for years and suddenly switch to oolong, your oolong will have a slight pu'er like taste to it. It is best to use one pot for one category or flavor-profile of tea.

Second, an yixing pot is not a simple art object. Every time you use it, the color will change slightly, and the patina will become more lustrous. This means that you get years of pleasure in seeing your teapot grow and change. This quality captures the essence of tea culture. An object becomes more valuable because of its history, because of all of the fine teas that have been made in it before. It is appreciated because it is not new.

Hopefully, this will help you make a decision about whether an yixing pot is right for you or not next time you visit your local tea store. Here a few basic rules to follow when using your pot:

• When you first buy the teapot, boil it in a pot of water for five minutes. This will free the pores of any residue from the firing process. Next, steep a tea in the pot for 10-15 seconds and pour it into a bowl just bigger than the pot itself. Repeat this process until the bowl is full. Immerse the teapot in the bowl of tea for 15-20 minutes. Rinse with boiling water and allow to dry fully. Then, your teapot is ready for its first use. The tea will seem lighter the first few times because the pot is still absorbing much of the flavor. After about three uses, the pot starts to give flavor back to the tea.
• Never use soap, or any detergent on your pot unless you want future teas to taste like soap. Only wash your pot with hot/boiling water. Allow pot to dry with lid removed.
• Choose one tea to use for one teapot and stick with it. Traditionally, yixing pots are used to steep black tea, pu'er, rock oolong (like Big Red Robe), or sometimes tieguanyin. Green tea is better prepared in a glass teapot, or a simple glass cup, as is white tea or jasmine tea.
• When picking out your teapot, try to find one that is relatively small. This will let you experience the Chinese way of steeping tea many times with the same leaves and tasting the way that it changes each time. I recommend finding a teapot not much bigger than your fist.

For more on using yixing teapots, watch our tea ceremony walk-through on youtube. For examples of some fine yixing clay, check out our Facebook album.

The Story of Tieguanyin

As spring unfolds here in Minnesota, I think of my friends in Anxi, preparing for the busiest time of the year: the spring picking of Tieguanyin. This exquisite oolong tea, sometimes seen as Tikuanyin, or Iron Goddess of Mercy, is picked during a short window in the spring and then again during a short window in the autumn. In China, the excitement over a new crop can grow to a fever-pitch these weeks of early spring. This is because, while Tieguanyin is one of the most popular and well-liked teas of China, it also has one of the shortest shelf-lives, fading in flavor after only a few months. This means that by late winter, the best Tieguanyin has already lost much of its distinctive flavor.

In celebration of the new picking, I want to tell the myth of Tieguanyin's beginning. Every tea farmer has a slightly different version, but the basic story goes something like this: In the countryside near Anxi, there was a ruined old temple. every day a poor man would go to the temple, clean the altar of Guanyin, the Buddhist goddess of mercy, and pray for hours. One day, in recognition of the man's kindness, Guanyin appeared to him in a dream, saying, "There is a cave not far from here. You must go to that cave where I have left a gift for all of mankind. Plant and cultivate my gift, and it will bring great joy to the world and great prosperity to you." The man awoke and went to the cave to find a little seedling. Though he was dubious, he planted the seedling in his yard and tended it every day. He was soon disappointed that nothing had come of the growing plant but leaves.

One day, a friend came to visit. The old man brought up the story of the seedling, and the friend asked to try the leaves. They boiled the leaves in water and drank, finding a heavenly taste and a rich aroma. At the advice of the friend, the old man roasted and dried the leaves. The taste became even better, full of orchid, honey and cream. This is the tea that is known today as Tieguanyin. The Tie or iron part of the this tea's name comes from the fact that the leaves are rolled into tight balls, making this one of the heaviest teas.

Try a cup of Tieguanyin for yourself, imagine being the old farmer and tasting something so different for the first time, realizing the value of Guanyin's gift. Most specialty tea stores will stock this tea. Look for a tea with few to no twigs attached, and tightly rolled balls that still have a bright but deep green color to them. If the tea is brownish, it is too old and will have no flavor. You should be able to smell orchid or lilac in the dry tea. If not, the tea has been improperly stored and is no longer worth drinking. If you are not sure, you can usually buy a pot of tea to drink in the store. If it is good, buy a bag to take home. If not, keep looking.

To steep this tea, it is best to use a small yixing clay teapot or a gaiwan, which I explain in my introductory video on tea ceremony: http://www.youtube.com/user/VerdantTeaChannel

If you do not have the equipment needed, don't worry. The important thing is to steep in a small container for not too much time. Take two small glasses, make sure the glass is tempered so that it does not crack when hot. Put about two tablespoons of tea into one glass. Fill up the glass with boiling spring water, (no more than a cup) and then pour the tea almost immediately into the second cup. if you have a strainer, you can use it to catch extra leaves. If the water is too hot, than use two mugs with handles. The first steeping is usually poured away because it is too light, and it serves the purpose of washing the leaves. Drink the second steeping, and steep five to six times. Usually the third steeping is most flavorful. Try to see how the flavors change.

This is an important point: Keep your Tieguanyin, and green tea in the freezer, sealed airtight. They do not do this at most American tea stores, but this has to do with cost, or ignorance. In China, ALL tea stores keep Tieguanyin and green tea in the freezer. This keeps the flavor fresh much longer, and stops the teas from absorbing other smells in the air. If you are skeptical, do an experiment. Put one bag in the freezer, sealed for eight months and keep one bag out in your pantry. Try them at the end and see what tastes better.

For a complete album of pictures from our Tieguanyin gongfu ceremony, check out our Facebook page.

Chinese Gongfu Tea Ceremony

Many Americans are familiar with tea ceremony. Every major city has a Japanese tea garden, and we see the benefits of matcha touted on products from granola bars to hot dogs. Yet, very few Americans are familiar with the grandfather of all tea ceremony, the Chinese gongfu tea service. During the Song dynasty in China, Japan sent many monks to study Buddhism with the Chinese Chan or Zen school. This exchange resulted in a great cultural bridge, carrying elements of the Song dynasty back to Japan. One element was the tea ceremony.

At the time, tea was ground into a fine powder, boiled, and whisked into spring water in a kettle in accordance with the great tea sage Lu Yu's master work: The Book of Tea. After the Song dynasty, tea was found to be more flavorful and fragrant when the original leaves were preserved and tea was steeped rather than whisked into water. Modern gongfu service reflects this change while Japanese ceremony preserves the tradition of the Song.

In China today, gongfu ceremony can be done with oolong or black tea, while Japanese ceremony is always done with matcha, a high-grade green tea ground into powder. Because there are so many different kinds of oolong and black tea, an important part of the Chinese ceremony is to admire the leaves, smell the tea and have a conversation about its taste. This is a way that the ceremony reinforces the idea of appreciating beauty in the little things.

Verdant Tea has put together a video in two parts on Chinese tea ceremony, explaining the tools used and giving step-by-step instructions on how to prepare the tea. Take a look:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z92bCfoBtn4

For a true, in-depth experience with Chinese tea, consider a six-week course, meeting once a week in the evenings. Check ot the side bar to your right for more info.

Finding the Way of Tea

In The Way of Tea, Okakuro Kakuzo writes of teaism. This is the idea of tea as a way of life, a celebration of beauty and a chance to meditate on weightier things. The ceremony of tea is a time to stop and be enraptured by smells, sounds, tastes and sight. It is a rare occasion when the oldest objects filled with the most imperfections are the most praised, and the taste most strived-for is one that brings us closer to nature and the origins of the leaves. This is the experience that I want to bring to America and it is for teaism that Verdant Tea has been founded.

Verdant Tea is a group devoted to sparking an interest in honest, humble tea as it was meant to be enjoyed thousands of years ago. This blog is one part of that campaign. Here you will find stories about the origins of tea, advice on buying tea, featured stories collected from Chinese tea farmers, and more.

Today I want to introduce one key point: tea should almost NEVER be bitter. I see Americans discovering tea, and embracing it for its health benefits, but disguising the bitter taste with mango, peach, vanilla, cinnamon and more. Real tea, picked in the early morning on the misty mountains of Southern China, is not bitter, and furthermore it CAN be found here in the USA. Green teas can be sweet, grassy, substantive, with a lingering hint of stone, or green bean. Black teas should taste as though there were already milk and honey added, they should open up with the feeling of mulling spice. As a consumer, demand quality.

Through this blog, through videos, through classes, Verdant Tea will work to give you the tools you need to buy tea, and enjoy it in a way that honors the care that the farmers took to pick it and process it. Over time, tea can become a ritual in your daily life, a way to find moments of peace and appreciate the simple things in a world that goes by all too fast. For simple, quick introduction to the landscape of tea, feel free to check out Verdant Tea's first video posted on Youtube.

Happy Tasting!

David