In the last few years, I have seen the number of yixing clay teapots for sale in the United States go up quite a bit. Just this year, all the tea shops in Minneapolis/St. Paul have started to carry them. The question is, what exactly is an yixing clay teapot, and what makes it different from any other clay teapot?
Yixing is a county in Southern China, not too long of train ride from Shanghai or Hangzhou. What makes it special is the presence of a certain kind of clay that does not exist anywhere else in the
world. This clay has a special mineral composition that makes it perfectly porous, and makes it hold heat extraordinarily well. When I say "perfectly porous," I mean that the clay, once fired, if left unfinished, will absorb the flavor of tea into its pores over many years and develop a deep lustrous patina. It is because of this that true yixing clay teapots are rather sought-after and expensive.
Because of thier value, yixing teapots are often imitated. Now, any teapot made in the style of a small gongfu pot and left unglazed can be called an yixing teapot. Sadly, I have yet to see much authentic yixing clay ware make it to America. Even if you go to China, it is easy to be tricked. To judge the authenticity of the clay, first examine it. The clay should not be one solid color, but contain many small flecks of slightly different colors within it. Inside the teapot, you should notice small sparkling mica flecks when you shine light inside. If you turn the lid against the body of the teapot, you should hear a distinct deep metallic sound. If it sounds like rock, the clay is
from elsewhere. If it sounds too metallic, minerals were probably mixed into the clay to pass it off as an imitation.
Now that we have this established, we should discuss what makes a good yixing clay teapot. The easiest way to judge quality is to wiggle the lid. If it does not move much at all, it is well crafted and fit together. If it wiggles too much, it was made in a sloppy way, or by a machine. Second, turn the lid again. If you notice any grinding, it is a sign that the clay has been sanded down after firing to correct for poor craftsmanship. The lid should almost glide. Next, inspect the inside of the teapot. There should be a slight dimple where the handle was attached if your pot was hand-made. If not, it was probably made in a mold. Finally, look at the color. Yixing clay comes in many colors, but they all begin slightly dull. If your pot is too shiny, or the color is very bright, it may be painted or treated. Paint or varnish on an yixing pot is not only a sign of bad quality; it will actually affect the taste of your tea.
So, with all of this trouble to go buy an yixing pot, why would you ever want one? Simply put, they make far superior tea. They are high maintenance, but over years of use, they pick up the essence of all the teas that you have steeped in the pot, and impart a bit of that essence to all future teas. This makes tea steeped in an yixing pot much more rich and deep than steeped any
other way. The flavor will have more layers and a more interesting texture and feeling in the mouth. This means that if you use a teapot for pu'er for years and suddenly switch to oolong, your oolong will have a slight pu'er like taste to it. It is best to use one pot for one category or flavor-profile of tea.
Second, an yixing pot is not a simple art object. Every time you use it, the color will change slightly, and the patina will become more lustrous. This means that you get years of pleasure in seeing your teapot grow and change. This quality captures the essence of tea culture. An object becomes more valuable because of its history, because of all of the fine teas that have been made in it before. It is appreciated because it is not new.
Hopefully, this will help you make a decision about whether an yixing pot is right for you or not next time you visit your local tea store. Here a few basic rules to follow when using your pot:
- When you first buy the teapot, boil it in a pot of water for five minutes. This will free the pores of any residue from the firing process. Next, steep a tea in the pot for 10-15 seconds and pour it into a bowl just bigger than the pot itself. Repeat this process until the bowl is full. Immerse the teapot in the bowl of tea for 15-20 minutes. Rinse with boiling water and allow to dry fully. Then, your teapot is ready for its first use. The tea will seem lighter the first few times because the pot is still absorbing much of the flavor. After about three uses, the pot starts to give flavor back to the tea.
- Never use soap, or any detergent on your pot unless you want future teas to taste like soap. Only wash your pot with hot/boiling water. Allow pot to dry with lid removed.
- Choose one tea to use for one teapot and stick with it. Traditionally, yixing pots are used to steep black tea, pu'er, rock oolong (like Big Red Robe), or sometimes tieguanyin. Green tea is better prepared in a glass teapot, or a simple glass cup, as is white tea or jasmine tea.
- When picking out your teapot, try to find one that is relatively small. This will let you experience the Chinese way of steeping tea many times with the same leaves and tasting the way that it changes each time. I recommend finding a teapot not much bigger than your fist.
For more on using yixing teapots, watch our tea ceremony walk-through on youtube. For examples of some fine yixing clay, check out our Facebook album.
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